Unsung food suburbs: Castlecrag, New South Wales
Among the beautiful stone houses and clipped lawns of this north shore Sydney suburb are a host of surprisingly good dining options for those living in the area – and beyond
Roberta MuirTuesday 19 August 2014 04.18 BST
Artusi in Castlecrag, a dining destination that flies under the radar. Photograph: Roberta Muir for the Guardian
Originally planned by Walter Burley Griffin, Castlecrag on Sydney’s picturesque Middle Harbour, just 8km from the CBD, is known more for its historical than its culinary significance. A love of nature drew Griffin and his wife, Marion, to Sydney’s lower north shore in 1925, where they designed beautiful homes built from local stone. They named the suburb after a huge crag of rock overlooking the water, dubbed by locals “Edinburgh Castle”.
While Sydney’s north shore is rarely thought of as a dining destination, the inhabitants of Castlecrag are better served than most, with a united nations of restaurants close by.
Artusi’s calamari fritti with lime mayo. Photograph: Roberta Muir for the Guardian
Artusi, run by Paola and Luca d’Adamio from Abruzzo, holds its own in a city that does Italian food very well. Exposed brick and Italian tiles create interest and warmth inside, while diners at outside tables enjoy the streetscape.
House-made grissini and bruschetta topped with spicy Calabrian nduja are a great start, as is calamari fritti with lime mayo. The pasta menu showcases regional specialties from around Italy, from vibrant green pesto trofie enriched with a non-traditional but thoroughly delicious chunk of burrata, to Puglian fusilli with cime di rapa, cacioricotta and chilli.
Risotto, always a difficult dish to get right amid the pressures of a commercial kitchen, is surprisingly good too. A simple tagliata of beef, cooked medium, cut into thin strips and served with radicchio, aged balsamic and roasted potatoes is typical of Luca’s approach to quality produce, prepared simply.
Desserts, including a nougat semifreddo with Ligurian honey, almond milk and candied almonds, are all made in-house and the short, Italian-heavy wine list contains a few gems.
2/122 Edinburgh Rd, Castlecrag, +61 2 9967 5371
Ganache French Patisserie
Master pâtissier Didier Sockeel’s almond croissants. Photograph: Roberta Muir for the Guardian
It’s not unusual to find a queue out the door on busy weekend mornings as locals stop by to grab master pâtissier Didier Sockeel’s almond croissants, pain au chocolate and fruit danishes fresh from the oven.
Later in the day they’re after quiches with short pastry and fillings such as classic lorraine (ham and cheese), spinach, or blue cheese and caramelised onions; individual ones are great snacks, while the larger size is a mainstay of family picnics.
The sweets case is crowded with cold fruit flans and baked open tarts, beautifully decorated cakes and bite-sized treats as well as bags of biscuits including delicate tuiles and langues de chat. Crusty baguettes, meltingly soft brioche and great coffee complete the package.
85 Edinburgh Rd, Castlecrag, +61 2 9967 2882
Flavours of Peking Chinese Restaurant
Northern Chinese food worth crossing Sydney for. Photograph: Roberta Muir for the Guardian
While Sydney has plenty of Cantonese food, it’s harder to find good food from China’s north. This unprepossessing restaurant tucked at the back of a small shopping centre attracts many Chinese families and others willing to travel for great noodles, dumplings and Peking duck.
The space is humble but the service is friendly and there don’t appear to be any double standards when it comes to what Chinese and non-Chinese speakers are offered. Everyone can enjoy falling-off-the-bone braised pork belly, large garlicky prawns steamed in lotus leaf, and deep-fried tofu in brown Peking sauce. Or make a meal of the excellent three-course Peking duck (pancakes, san choy bau and soup).
Northern Chinese specialties such as steamed, or pot-sticker, dumplings are among the best in Sydney, and the crisp, salty shallot pancakes and smoked vegetarian goose are moreish. Even more familiar dishes, such as salt and pepper prawns, are treated with respect, with fresh hot oil used to fry large meaty prawns in a thin crisp batter, finished with a scattering of fresh green onions and chillies.
Quadrangle Shopping Village, Shop 7/100 Edinburgh Rd, Castlecrag, +61 2 9958 3288
Cyrus the Great Persian Restaurant
Music and food meet at Cyrus the Great Persian Restaurant. Photograph: Roberta Muir for the Guardian
Persian food is also under-represented in Sydney, so it’s exciting to discover Cyrus tucked away behind Artusi.
It’s a large space designed for big groups who enjoy Persian music videos projected on to a giant screen dominating one wall, musicians and a belly dancer who keep things lively on Saturday nights, and generous banquet menus.
But earlier in the week it’s usually much quieter, perfect for couples or smaller groups to sample superb charcoal-grilled kebabs of chicken, minced or cubed lamb, or fish, alongside yoghurt or eggplant dips, fresh salad and big discs of charred Persian flat bread.
6/120-122 Edinburgh Rd, Castlecrag, +61 2 9967 0051
Castlecrag Cellars
Castlecrag Cellars, one of Sydney’s best independent bottle shops. Photograph: Roberta Muir for the Guardian
Cyrus isn’t licensed and Artusi allows BYO early in the week so it’s handy that they’re either side of one of Sydney’s best independent bottle shops.
George and Anna Doukas at Castlecrag Cellars carry a great range of wines, including multiple vintages of the sought-after Moss Wood cabernet and Leeuwin Estate Art Series chardonnay. There are also single-malt whiskies alongside other spirits, liqueurs and beers, including some harder-to-find treats such as Cynar artichoke aperitif.
122 Edinburgh Rd, Castlecrag, +61 2 9958 1507
